There’s always something…..

The day started fine although overcast and forecast of drizzle. Lovely. However, for once the forecast was wrong and within an hour or so the sun broke through to give us blue skies. We sailed out of A Coruna with a lovely beam reach so things were looking good for the 50nm and ten hour journey we had planned to take us half way to Cape Finisterre.

After 3 hours the wind died and we elected to motor as we needed to reach the anchorage in daylight as it is a difficult entrance with various rocks to trip up the unwary. The journey was uneventful and we even had time to listen to some Spanish lessons.

We arrived at the anchorage in the Ria Camarinas and Liz started to get things ready to deploy the anchor and then it happened – our windlass stopped working! This means that we can deploy the anchor easily enough but we will need to haul up the chain tomorrow morning by hand. Now the anchor we bought a couple of years ago is very good and will set pretty much every time, first time which also means that it is well and truly fast into the mud/sand. Oh well, there is always something! Consequently, we won’t be going into the village this evening but trying to mend the windlass!

The anchorage itself is lovely with only a few other boats in it although there is a bit of wind blowing now (typical when you don’t need it). Still, least that means we can have the wind generator on to top up the batteries.

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La Coruna

We awoke to drizzle and mist in Cedeira harbour but the anchor had held well and we were visited by yet more dolphins but alas it was too murky for photos. The wind was non existent so we motored the 30 miles to La Coruna,  the capital of Galicia.

We are in a marina in the centre of town with the sun shining and about 26 degrees at 1930. It looks a lovely old city that we intend to explore over the next couple of days. We had booked an engineer for the following day (Monday) as we needed the oil filter on the new engine to be changed as we had clocked up more than 50 hours. We would normally do this ourselves but the new engine had the oil filter painted over with green marine paint so we didn’t want to damage anything and assumed he would have the right tools. He duly arrived at 9am the next day and took him three hours as it was a devil to remove. Made us feel better that we couldn’t get it off. DSCN7432La Coruña is a very pretty town with the marina in the middle of it. It makes life so much easier when you need to do a big shop or buy more camping gaz if you don’t have to trek for miles, although it does keep you fit!

La Coruña is a major stopping off point for many boats crossing direct from the UK or NW France on their way down to the Med or the Canary Islands. Consequently, the marina felt like the UN with so many different nationalities amicably berthed next to each other. The city itself is very prosperous and obviously used to be a  trading centre with a magnificent main square that celebrates the unsuccessful siege of 1589 by the English when Maria Pita led the defence. DSCN7418There are many small alleyways off this square filled with restaurants and bars. The houses on the front all have glassed in balconies to protect them from the brisk Atlantic air. DSCN7391

We ate out in a family restaurant one night and made sure we had traditional Galician food of “racions” of chipirones (squid), vieiras (scallops in St James’ shell) and almejas marinera (clams). These are  portions bigger than tapas but smaller than a main course that are great for sharing.

One of the oldest working lighthouses in the world is at the entrance to La Coruña harbour  as there has been a lighthouse on the same spot since the 1st Century AD. DSCN7481

 

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The first thousand miles

We have now done over 1,000 nautical miles so we are more than two thirds the way to Gibraltar. It seems like only yesterday that we left Haslar Marina in Gosport for Cherbourg. We should have known that nothing would go accordingly to plan as the weather conspired against us (as well as Hampshire Traffic Police!) so that we left nearly a week later than planned. We were then delayed in Jersey for an extra day or two before setting off for Brittany. All was going well until the engine seized and then we spent 4 weeks in Brest getting the new one fitted etc. However, it has also given us a chance to reflect on the first thousand miles or so.

Weather – it was supposed to get warmer but it hasn’t as much as it should. Each time we rounded a major headland, the pilot books all said that it would be warmer and sunnier. We are now in Galicia, north western Spain and it is still only 20+ degrees. We also thought that we would not be wearing our oilies when sailing but we are and Liz is wearing her Ugg boots of an evening. The only thing that has changed since we got to Spain is that we no longer have condensation in the morning even when it has been raining. We have passed dew point.

Sailing vs. motoring – we have motored more than we wanted to as the wind has either been non existent or from the wrong direction. As we have lost a month with the engine, we feel the need to press on and ensure we catch the various weather windows.

Marinas vs. anchoring – we also thought that we would be in marinas more often than not until we reached the Med as you are having to deal with Atlantic Swell and bad weather but we have only been at anchor or on a mooring buoy for a fraction of the time (less than 10%) although the figures have been skewed with the engine problem.

Eating – we have mainly eaten on board with the occasional meal out as a treat. We have eaten well and cheaply with lots of fresh seafood from the various harbours as well having drunk good, local wine.

Maintenance – we had thought that everything was ready for when we went away but no. We repaired old but maybe we should have bought new. The fridge is playing up, the windlass needs repairing. We even had spares for our wind generator sent out. We have had to buy new blocks for the mainsheet and of course, a new engine!

Power – we have been really pleased with our solar panels and wind generator as they have provided us with more than enough power. They have worked better than expected.

Time – everything takes far longer than you would think. A trip to the supermarket takes a couple of hours as we have to walk there and then make sure we can carry all of the shopping back. We needed a new gas canister in A Coruna and that took us best part of two hours to find. Just getting up and ready for the day can take a couple of hours before we are ready to sail. We seem to get in around 8pm at night so that once we have eaten it is 10pm and we haven’t started planning for the next day. We only seem to relax when we spend a couple of days in a place. Then we have a chance to chill, read books or just explore the place.

However, through all of this, we have been to places we have never been to before, met new people and sampled new cultures and cuisines. And, we are not at work so it can’t be all bad!

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Cedeira

This was supposed to be a gentle sail from Viveiro to Cedeira (30nm) so that we had a pleasant lazy afternoon in a pretty location, tucked into a Ria, laying at anchor. Of course, the wind ended up being on the nose, the swell significant and we spent the whole day beating to windward. (this means that the direction we wanted to go was exactly where the wind was coming from so we had to tack back and forth to try to go forward.) ended up doing 46 miles in total and that was with the engine on for the last hour or so as we decided we had had enough! Now sitting at anchor in a pretty bay but the weather isn’t great – low cloud and drizzle. The good news is that the wind is supposed to move round to the NW and that should make for a quiet night but who knows!

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Another day, another Ria

We left Ribadeo around midday waiting for slack water as there is a vicious back eddy by our pontoon. In the Rias, the ebb tide runs strong so care is needed manoeuvring in tight spots like marinas. We wanted to make our way further west so that we can get to A Coruna as soon as the swell dies down as it is forecast to be more than 3 metres tomorrow and Friday. The swell is created far out in the Atlantic and actually isn’t anything to do with the strength of the wind locally.

As is always the way, the wind was coming from the direction we wanted to go and we also had the Atlantic swell to content with so going was very slow under sail. As we wanted to get to Viveiro before dark and the GPS had our eta as midnight, we put the engine on for a few hours.

Once we had rounded the headland we then had a cracking sail with two reefs in the main sail (so that the main was smaller) and managed 9 knots boat speed. We have found that no matter what direction we want to go in, the swell/tide is always against us. Hopefully this will change once we go round the NW corner of Spain!

The Rias have been described as a bit like Norwegian fjords but they haven’t impressed yet. They are large river estuaries but Scottish lochs have impressed us more. To be fair, the prettiest ones are supposed to be around the corner towards A Coruna. We will probably stay here at Ria de Viveiro for a couple of days for the swell to settle and the wind to go round to the NE.

Picture of Viveiro with its colourful house fronts – popular in Galicia.

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The Rias of Galicia

It was another sunny start to the day but sadly, with very little wind so we motored the 65 miles from Gijon to Ribadeo, the first of the Galician Rias. We are currently in a marina just inside the estuary mouth as there is a marine conservation site established here now so anchoring is much reduced. The marina itself is okay but expensive at €46 just for the night. Tomorrow we are planning to go to Viveiro, another Ria about 25 miles along the coast where you can anchor although there is some strong winds coming through so we may use the marina and stay for a couple of days. We are hoping to reach A Coruna sometime over the weekend so that we can then make our way to Portugal.

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Au Revoir France, Hola Espana!

On Thursday at midday we started our journey to cross the Bay of Biscay. The weather forecast was good – moderate swell and wind strength and the wind direction moving from SW (the direction we wanted to go) to N/NW. We had already reefed the main so that we didn’t need to do it as we went along and had a cracking sail for the first 27 hours with our extra crew member, the hydrovane, doing the steering and the swell manageable. Then the wind died and we had to put the engine on for the next 12 hours. We decided to head for Gijon (pronounced Hihon) rather than Santander which was where the wind was originally sending us as it is further along the coast towards the north west corner. Then the wind picked up and so did the sea state with the swell now at least 2.5 or 3 metres high. The swell is fine if there are long gaps between each wave or roller but it gets more difficult when the seas get steeper as the waves get closer together. We put a third reef in the sail and made good, if lumpy, progress. We were blessed yet again with dolphins playing in our bow wave at dusk and through the night until the next morning. Inevitably, the wind died again and was in the wrong direction so we made the decision to motor so that we made landfall in the light on Saturday evening.

Only having the two of us on board meant we had to have a watch system of three hours off and three hours on. By the end of the journey, we were both tired and ready for a long sleep as both our sleep patterns had been wrecked. We arrived at Gijon at 6pm on Saturday having clocked up over 300 miles in the end rather than the 260 miles it would have been from Belle Ile to Gijon direct. This is what happens when the wind is in the wrong direction!

We will now spend a couple of days here recovering and cleaning the boat as she and we were completely encrusted with salt. The shower on Sat eve was wonderful and we treated ourselves to a meal out in the marina – 24 euros for steak, chips and salad washed down with a very nice bottle of Rioja. Pictures of our Biscay crossing, wonderful sculpture in Gijon and our stops in Portugal and Spain.

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La Palais on Belle Ile

We spent the morning buying various bits and bobs for the boat from the chandleries and riggers in Crouesty before sailing over to Belle Ile. As we were about half way across a fog bank rolled in cutting visibility to less than half a mile. As quickly as it came, it cleared.

Belle Ile is about 15 miles from Crouesty and is famous throughout France. Le Palais is the main port where the ferries come to and mooring up is an interesting experience! You basically have to moor stern (back of boat) to the harbour wall with a rope through chains hanging down and then attach the bow (front of boat) to a mooring buoy. All of which can only be done with the help of the marina staff as there are already boats attached to both chains and buoys. Then you have to row your dinghy to the other bank where the town is. Tomorrow is supposed to be a lovely day so we will stay here and explore the island as well as polish the hull as it is perfectly sheltered here.

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Port Crouesty in the drizzle

The wind has dropped significantly today and we have come out of the Morbihan to Port Crouesty just outside the entrance to the Golfe. Crouesty is a massive marina or should I say 5 marinas in one place. We have been lucky and put into a spare berth that is much nearer the supermarket and showers as we need to do a big shop before we go to Belle Ile tomorrow. We also need a new boat hook!

We are hoping to leave Belle Ile on Thursday to cross Biscay to northern Spain some 240 miles away. We met up with colleagues of Liz’s for a meal. 

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Supping a beer lamenting the loss of boat hook

We had a gentle sail from Port Tudy to the Golfe du Morbihan in Quiberon Bay. There was only 6-9 knots of wind but we managed 5 knots. Going round Quiberon peninsular we had a foul tide of 2-3 knots so it resembled being in a washing machine but the weather was so benign that it didn’t matter. We were treated to two lots of dolphins playing with our bow wave. We felt very honoured.

Coming into the Morbihan you encounter fast tides as the Golfe is 50 square miles of sea and islands but with an entrance of just a half of a mile wide. On a Saturday afternoon in June it felt like Piccadilly Circus with motor boats, ferries, yachts and canoes all coming at you from different directions with no speed limit. It made the Solent seem quite sedate in comparison. Also, as it is Springs low tide is just 0.3m so you really have to watch your depth as the shore shoals very quickly in places. We are now moored in a bay off the Ile d’Arz for the night. Unfortunately in picking up a mooring buoy we managed to break a boat hook in half! We may stay here tomorrow as well as there is a low coming through so will be high winds during the day but we will be safely tucked in.

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