Two more than competent crew – day skippers no less!

Sunday, September 12th arrived with a clear blue sky and temperatures on the high 20s by 9am. Loui and Kate were due to land around 10.40am having got up at stupid o’clock to fly from Gatwick to Malta. They arrived at the boat around midday with their luggage and, more importantly, duty free allowance! We then had some lunch together before sitting down and deciding what we all wanted to do for the week they would be with us.

We decided to make a run for the Aeolian Islands off the north Coast of Sicily as we hadn’t actually made it there yet and it may be our last chance. This would mean a 24 hour sail to Taormina and then a dash up the Messina Straits before making our way over to the islands. We had an early night as they were tired but not before a spectacular meal at our favourite restaurant, Rampila, in Valletta. However, we were distraught that not only had the bus company put up prices to €2 but that was one way! No longer the €1.50 all day ticket. We had also fixed the AIS so that we could monitor other ships more easily whilst night sailing.

Monday morning (September 13th) the forecast was for light winds all week so it would mean motor sailing the entire way. Just as we were finishing lunch, we heard a ping and the mainsail dropped into the stack pack – very neatly I might add – with the halyard left at the top of the mast! Lunch hastily cleared away, we attached the topping lift (keeps the boom up when the mainsail is down) and used it as the main halyard. Kate spotted that we had a boom brake that is usually used when you need to take the main sheet off when the sails are down over winter. As there was a bit of swell, we decided we would retrieve the broken halyard when we were in the safety of Taormina Bay.

The next 21 hours were uneventful apart from the fact that it was the longest single journey for our crew. The watch system worked well with Kate and Loui sharing their watch with one of us. We had checked the weather forecast once we reached the tip of Sicily and there was a strong wind warning for during the night. We didn’t really believe it but put in two reefs all the same. Luckily we did as it did blow up for several hours in the middle of the night.

 We arrived in Taormina Bay at 8.30am on Tuesday morning and tied up to a buoy. As we were coming in, a beautiful French motor cum sailing yacht came in at the same time with all three sails up.

The swell forecast was supposed to be none existent where we were moored but it was rolling straight into the bay so made sleeping hard even though I had been up for 6 hours by then. Liz and I got up and decided to try to secure us to another mooring buoy from the stern (back of the boat) but first we had to inflate the dinghy as quietly as possible as K&L were fast asleep. Even after tying two long ropes together, we were short by at least 20 metres. We decided to go for a swim instead as the water was warm and absolutely clear. At that point, George (who owns the mooring buoys) turned up and suggested a different buoy to moor to as we could then attach ourselves to one astern of us. By this point it was too late to go back to bed.

 After brunch, we decided we needed to see whether the main halyard was still at the top of the mast or had dropped down into the middle of it. Loui offered to go up as she hadn’t done it before and found that the halyard was still there but the shackle had sheared so she brought it back down and we replaced the shackle. After all that exertion another dip in the sea was required and now with the stern rope attached, we could hang onto it and not get swept away by quite a strong current.

 We wanted to explore the town so we took the dinghy to a small marina nearby so that we could catch a bus or taxi – whichever came first. It was a taxi that took us all the way into town as the cable car wasn’t running due to damage, which was a real shame as the views from it are stunning as you climb from the shoreline to the town itself.

Kate and Loui had a quick wander round the Greek amphitheatre before joining us for cocktails at the Grande Hotel Timeo that has stunning views over the bay. Dinner was had in town with a gelato to finish off the evening. We were all very tired by then so an early night beckoned. Another glorious day in the Med though.

Posted in Equipment, News | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

The Marie Celeste

We arrived onto Nimmie late on Friday night (Sept 11th) to find her all open and a ladder against the mast. Down below was not much better. We couldn’t figure out what was going on given that Peter, our caretaker, knew we were coming. Anyway, we went to bed and thought we would sort it out in the morning.

Saturday arrived and we were none the wiser until we got a phone call from the man himself – from his hospital bed! He had been picking up a part for us and came off his scooter the previous afternoon. Several broken ribs and a punctured lung meant he will be out of action for a while although that didn’t stop him phoning and texting us over the next 24 hours. His son came round and finished off the deck light replacement and picked up the ladder and Peter’s tools.

By the time this was all completed, it meant that we couldn’t go for a day sail with Liz’s work colleague and her family. Still, we did do the food shopping and get Nimmie ready for her sail across to Sicily. The fridge was still playing up so we got lots of ice to keep the beers cold! A delightful evening was had with Sue and family, polished off with a meal at the yacht club.

Posted in News | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

A few days away

We caught the late flight from Luton on Weds evening (June 24th) arriving at the marina just before 1am. We discovered that the marina office had changed the metering system for the electricity and water so the security chaps met us to ensure all was working. We initially thought that they had changed the entry fob system as well but that was all working fine. Friends, James and Minh, came out with us for the long weekend. They have sailed their Southerly 42 around the UK and are planning going south from the UK in the not too distant future so were keen to see how we were set up for liveaboard living in hotter climes.

Thursday morning was spent sorting the boat out and shopping. The fridge decided to stop working so Peter kindly got a fridge engineer out to us to re-gas the system. We thought that had done the trick but soon after he had left, we could smell burning from the compressor. We immediately turned it off and went out to buy ice, a lot of it! Suspect we will need a new one! Then, after lunch, we set sail. Our intention was to find nice coves to anchor in, dive off the back of the boat and generally chill for the next few days. We had a great sail from Valletta to the other side of the island.

Swimming area in Tuftieha Bay

We had intended on anchoring in Tuftieha Bay as we had seen it at Easter with Liz’s parents and it looked lovely. Unfortunately, in high season the majority of the bay is cordoned off for swimming so we had to anchor in the next bay, Gnejna. By now, the wind was still gusting over 20 knots and it was getting late so decided on a pasta meal on board. The wind died down with the sunset in the sheltered bay so we spent the evening chatting in the cockpit.

It turned out to be a lovely overnight spot although the anchored boats appeared to have peeked the interest of the Maltese military. We could only assume that they had stepped up their vigilance due to the migrant crisis. After a lovely swim in the morning, we sailed over to Gozo, the second largest island in the Maltese archipelago.

IMG_2138

A lot of military activity whilst anchored in Gnejna Bay

IMG_4472

A very chilled James in Gwejna Bay

We managed to sail most of the way to a place called Fungus Rock, near to the Azure Window. Once through the narrow entrance, it can be a very sheltered spot. James and Minh went for a swim and Minh managed to get stung by a jelly fish. We quickly poured vinegar over the bite then rubbed antihistamine cream on it which seemed to do the trick. By now, the swell was coming in and the holding wasn’t great with a thin layer of sand over rock so we decided to pull up the anchor and go round to the north coast of Malta.

IMG_5105

Fungus Rock on Gozo

Mellieha Bay is a huge bay with plenty of anchoring space. We decided to nip under a cliff just inside the entrance that gave us shelter from the wind, as it was blowing hard again, as well as the swell. We only had a few other boats as company. Again, we got there quite late but managed to have a BBQ on the back of the board and just spent the evening chilling.

IMG_4480 (2)

Let’s hope it all works!

The next day, Saturday, was sunny and very warm so we took the opportunity to try out the new scuba diving gear. We had great teachers in James and Minh who both dive so felt confident having a go. We only want it to be able to go under the boat to clean it and check it regularly. The Mini B scuba gear we bought has a small 5L canister in it which provides about 20-30 mins of air.

As the morning progressed, the wind got up and more boats came and anchored very close to us. We had let out quite a bit of chain the night before as it was windy so we were getting concerned that other boats were laying their anchors over ours. We had already decided to make our way back to Valletta so that we could clean and sort the boat out before spending the evening in the city. We had yet another great sail and arrived into our new berth just as the wind was gusting around 20 knots – lovely! Luckily, all was well although it did help having four of us to quickly moor up. After spending a couple of hours getting the boat ready to be left for a couple of months, we all had showers in the Yacht Club and made our way into the main city.

We had a lovely evening showing them the sights before having a meal on the ramparts. We had such a lovely time but it ended far too quickly. It was great just chilling and sailing in lovely company and great crew. Looking forward to next time!

IMG_5127

The Rampala restaurant tucked into the ramparts in Valletta

IMG_4511

Looking relaxed with Grand Harbour in the background

IMG_4507

James and Minh overlooking Grand Harbour

Posted in News | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

The Saints In Malta

I’m not sure where the time goes when we are on the boat but yesterday was no exception. We had planned to spend the day being tourists but didn’t mange to leave the boat until 1pm. We then took a bus to St Julian (€1.50 all day ticket) to go to the Hilton hotel and the Portomaso marina. Liz stayed at the Hilton when she was working in Malta about 8 years ago. The marina is very sheltered and full of motor boats with a few sail boats. The water is almost turquoise, which is unusual so not sure if they deliberately put sand on the bottom when they built it!

Next stop was St Paul’s Bay further north. Another bus, using the same ticket. This bay is named after St Paul who was shipwrecked here in AD60. At the top of the bay lies the National Aquarium and next door, Cafe Del Mar. It is part of the Aquarium rather than associated with the bar of the same name on Ibiza! However, free settees in the sun with very reasonably priced drinks made for a very pleasant afternoon. There is an infinity pool there but to use it you have to hire the loungers. However, the place was very chilled and relaxed so suspect you could have gone in and no one would have minded. It was too windy yesterday to try but very warm (26C) out of the wind.

We got back around 7pm having taken another bus that took us via Mosta rather than the busy tourist route along the coast. Our last evening meal on board watching the world go by. It seems that Malta has really got into the summer season now with more people about, cafes on the seafront full and more people down on their boats in the marina. There is a real buzz about the place.

This morning has been spent getting the boat ready to leave for a month as we are back at the end of June for a long weekend. As our flight isn’t until 1645, it’s been a very relaxed final morning with the temperature up in the high 20s by noon. Can’t believe that two weeks has  gone so quickly, but then great holidays always do, don’t they?

Posted in News | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Back in Malta

We left Ragusa, Sicily before 0800 on the Tuesday morning as there was a small weather window between various fronts coming through. Monday would have been a better day to go as there was some wind but we had to take the hire car back to Ragusa town as they weren’t open on the Sunday and also stock up with food. Sicilians very sensibly don’t open their shops on a Sunday afternoon so we were too late when we got back from Noto. By delaying a day it also gave the sea state a chance to calm down.

The journey over was very uneventful as there was hardly any wind and the sea state was slight to moderate. The only excitement was seeing HMS Bulwark standing on station just outside Valletta. We heard a nearby yacht asking permission to get closer to take a picture. “No closer than 500 yards, Sir” was the reply. The wind picked up as we came in but all was fine. As predicted, the wind continued to build as the evening wore on and was blowing hard by bedtime. However, we were snug in our berth trying to watch one of Liz’s bargain DVD buys. Suffice to say, it stopped working half way through!

Wednesday was spend doing chores on the boat as we will be leaving her for a month. We had wanted to wash her down but we couldn’t add any money to the fob so were unable to ‘buy’ any water or any electricity as the office was shut due to moving a few doors down. Luckily, we have both a wind generator and solar panels so can produce our own electricity. We decided not to get the water maker going but wait 24 hours before washing her. Although the weather is not very hot, it is very nice during the day reaching the mid 20s and then cooling off in the evening. If the wind wasn’t still blowing 16-20 knots the evenings would be very pleasant indeed.

Posted in News | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Noto and Vendicari

We checked out of our hotel at 10.30am on Sunday morning to make our way back to Marina di Ragusa. As this was our last full day with a car, we decided to make full use of it. We made the two hour journey down to the city of Noto that was reputed to have beautiful architecture. We arrived at 12.30pm and fully expected everything to be closed but the place was a hive of activity with lots of people making the most of the lovely sunshine and warm weather. It was truly stunning with amazing buildings and a pedestanised main street. We were lucky to have a small car and found a parking space nearby that cost us 80 cents. Bargain.  

     

This was definitely somewhere we would come back to so we could explore it at our leisure. After that, we were on the hunt for nice beaches and Vendicari Nature a Reserve did not disappoint. It is tucked away on the SE corner and was very quiet for a Sunday afternoon. There is at lot of seaweed, reminiscent of Alghero, but the sea was an amazing array of blue hues. We spent a couple of hours just chilling there.


Once we were back in Marina di Ragusa, we strolled along the promenade with the rest of the town, savouring the atmosphere before going back and eating on board. The town has a lovely atmosphere and charm. It is clean, tidy and quite chic in its way. I think we will back!

Posted in News | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Taormina and Mount Etna

As you know, we hired a car for a few days so we thought we would make full use of it and go to Taormina on the east coast of Sicily not far from the Messina Straits. We had anchored there last September on our way down to Malta but the weather wasn’t great and we didn’t want to leave the boat. In fact, it would have been quite difficult to land the dinghy and get up to the town as it is set up high in the rocky cliff face – very reminiscent of Sorrento. By chance, friends of ours, Wanda and Catherine, were also going to be there at the same time so it was good to catch up. We had found a lovely small hotel about 5 mins from the centre with its own parking for £50 per night so we decided to stay a couple of nights. We arrived late afternoon along with the rest of the world it seemed as the traffic jam to wind our way through the narrow streets was long. The view from the breakfast terrace was just lovely.  

We walked down to Wanda and Catherine’s hotel to meet them for a drink but got a bit lost so a 45 minute journey took an hour and a half! Still, their hotel had a lovely view across to a little cove so it was worth it. The 6 of them including Dwayne, Simon, Neal and Clive, and the two of us got the cable car back up to the centre where we found a little trattoria off a side street and had fab freshly caught fish washed down with copious amounts of local wine. The evening was rounded off with the obligatory ice cream.

The next day (Saturday) the two of us drove up to Mount Etna. Whilst similar to Mount Versuvius the drive up was devoid of an litter. Indeed, Sicily generally is very clean and tidy – unlike the area around Naples! We arrived at the bottom of the cable car, some 1923m high to then go up a further 500m to be met by off road vehicles to take us closer to the crater. It was decidedly cooler at the top with a wind chill factor of at least 15-20 degrees so it felt closer to zero. It was well worth the experience and cost as there was snow as well smoke coming from the crater. The souvenir shops were so tacky that even Liz didn’t want to browse! 

We drove back along the coast road and went to Riposta to look at the marina for future reference. Very tidy and the town itself seemed very lively. We also stopped at Isola Bella below Taormina where you can paddle across to the island. It was quite sweet but probably looked better from a distance.  

 

We decided to look around Taormina town before dinner in the top restaurant in Taormina, Cinque Archi. We visited the Greek Amphitheatre that is literally right in town and saw a lovely looking hotel with a fabulous veranda over looking the bay so, obviously, we had to have cocktails! All in all, a lovely place and somewhere we would go back to.  

 
Posted in News | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Mosaics and mad motorists

After a fairly lazy morning, we continued our tour of Southern Sicily and set off on a two hour drive to a Roman villa near Piazza Armerina where there is the most amazing mosaics. The vast majority of the floors in this large villa have intact mosaics – apparently the largest single collection anywhere. Quite extraordinary.  One of the most amazing was of ‘Bikini women’. I’m not sure I’ve seen mosaics before depicting women doing sporting activities. It was well worth the drive.  It’s a shame that there was a banner promoting Sicilian heritage across the floor. 

We also went onto Licata, which was another harbour we were going to visit as we had heard good reports. The town was nothing special but it did have a large supermarket next to the marina. Always a bonus when you don’t have a car! We experienced Sicilian driving at its ‘best’ today. People overtaking three or four cars, two lorries at a time on bends and with oncoming traffic. Amazing. The other thing that I hadn’t appreciated was the part of the Highway Code that allowed you to stop on a roundabout to drop someone off or indeed, just park there! However, the Sicilain countryside is quite lovely. Incredibly fertile with miles upon miles of cultivated farm land and poly tunnels – presumably to keep the vegetation from being scorched.

 

Posted in News | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Ragusa

Marina di Ragusa is a town in its own right and not just a marina! A bit like Mallorca, the main town is further inland away from marauding pirates and invaders. The marina itself is delightful, incredibly clean and the water is fed by underground springs so there are no barnacles at all. People who have over wintered here have had no growth at all. Note to self – move here when work is finished in Malta.  As you can see from the picture, there are no barnacles to be seen and the water is turquoise!

 They also offer incredibly good winter rates so there is a lively liveaboard community here. We joined them for a drink (or two!) last night in a local bar.

But we are getting ahead of ourselves. The weather over the next few days is forecast to be very windy and blowing from the NW. This meant that the only opportunity to go further west towards Licate was to go today (Weds) but we would have had to leave early and then would be stuck there for the next five days. After some investigation, it was easier to hire a car from Ragusa Town as the bus only costs €4.80 return and goes fairly regularly. So, we are staying in Marina di Ragusa until at least Monday and have secured a reasonable deal from the marina on top of the discount we get for being members of the Cruising Assocation.

Yesterday, we went into Ragusa to the smaller, and older, part called Ragusa Ibla. This was the town before the 1693 earthquake and is full of baroque buildings as well as the requisite duomo. We had intended to eat at the Michelin starred restaurant there but we didn’t get there in time as they stopped serving at 1330. Another time. Instead we had lunch at a little restaurant just behind the duomo, washed down with a fab bottle of local wine. Pictures of Ragusa Ibla Duomo and gardens.

Today (Weds) was sunny and warm with temperatures in the high 20s. We went into town early to pick up the hire car except we couldn’t find their office. It transpires that the Hertz office hadn’t actually opened so there were no signs and the map on their website was completely wrong so we traipsed about a mile in the wrong direction before figuring out it was close to the bus stop! However, it did mean that we had a good look around the town centre. We had initially thought that it was as bad as Sassari in Sardinia but it turned out to be much nicer although they had also turned their Liberation Square into a car park! Having picked up our little Fiat 500, the first thing we did was go to the local Decathlon store where we purchased an inflatable kayak to have on the boat before we started to explore the SE corner of Sicily. This is when you realise just how big Sicily is. It’s the largest island in the Med and the roads are not exactly made for fast driving. Even the Superstradas are a bit like B roads in the UK so 40mph is the best you can manage. There are a few that are better than this but not many. Suffice to say, we didn’t manage to see much in our first afternoon. We did get to see some nice coastlines and spotted a couple of anchorages.  A very kind Polish cyclist took the picture of us at Avalon.   

Posted in News | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

They said 7 knots of wind…

The forecast for Sunday and Monday couldn’t have been more different. Strong westerly winds on Sunday followed by light and variable winds on Monday. We still had a bit to do on Nimmie so decided to set sail early on Monday towards Sicily. Of course, having washed several months of sandy rain off the boat on Sunday, it rained over night with sand in it! Still, she was cleaner than before.

Monday morning arrived and it was raining heavily so we delayed our departure until it eased which meant a 0930 departure time rather than the planned 0800. It’s  45-55nm to southern Sicily from Valletta so around 10 hours. Once out of the harbour, it was clear that we needed to reef as it was blowing well over 25 knots and from the east – not forecast! Once we had reefed, we were racing along although the sea state wasn’t great so was a bit rolly to say the least. We had great wind for over 4 hours before the wind came round to the north and started to die. We had already decided to make for Ragusa because of the wind angle but that was 10nm further than our original destination, Pozzallo. The other reason was because we would have been anchored there and the swell would be coming straight into the anchorage – not a pleasant night’s sleep to look forward to.

We finally resorted to the iron donkey (aka engine) when our ground speed dropped below 5 knots and our eta was after dark. The sea state had calmed down some so not unpleasant by about 1530. The channel between Sicily and Malta is very busy with container ships and oil tankers so a sharp look out was required, especially as our AIS that identifies ships stopped working! Visibility was good so not a problem. We arrived in Ragusa at just after 7pm to be welcomed by a very nice chap who guided us to a very protected berth and took our lines. By this point, we were both knackered so having washed the boat down (she was covered in salt), we sat down to a lovely meal Liz had prepared early in the slow cooker, opened a bottle of wine and were in bed by 10.30!

Pictures of the crossing into Italian territorial waters. As you can see, not exactly tee shirt and shorts weather!

 

Screen Shot 2018-06-06 at 10.56.50
Sicily including Egadi and Aeolian Islands, Pantelleria and Malta
Posted in News | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments