Formia – finally on the mainland!

We left Ponza at 0300 as planned on Weds for the 7 hour trip back to the mainland. There was still no wind until about 0800 but then the predicted blow came. It was from the NW so we put the genoa up (that’s the flappy white thing at the front) and sailed with just that and still made over 6 knots. We were running low on fuel so wanted to fill up as soon as we arrived as we weren’t sure what time we would leave the next morning. However, the fuel was between two hydrofoil ferries. There were a number of fishing boats waiting to fill up as well so we spent nearly an hour waiting our turn. Eventually, we motored in carefully as we didn’t want to hit either the ferry or the hydrofoils sticking out of their sides. I don’t think that they get many visiting yachts as our credit cards didn’t work so had to pay for 150 litres with cash!

Next we needed to find somewhere to moor for the night and went first to the marina on the west side of the harbour but we told very forcibly that we had to go to the area marked ‘transito’ on the far side by the fishing boats. There didn’t look like there were any lazy lines to pick up and we didn’t fancy putting the anchor down as there were a lot of protruding lines and almost certainly a fouled bottom (that is all sorts of junk on the seabed to snare your anchor). There were no other visiting boats and the wind was still strong so we went alongside rather than stern to. Jase and Lee went off to explore the town as Jase’s grandmother was born there before escaping Mussolini’s regime. Just as they returned a port authority official came by to say that we needed to re-moor stern to. We pointed out that there were no lazy lines and no other boats so why couldn’t we stay as we were. It was still blowing quite hard and we didn’t fancy manoeuvring Nimmie if we didn’t have to. Eventually, he relented to let us move her when the wind died but insisted we deploy the anchor. He even asked a local what he should do as he had no idea what he was asking of us. He then told us off because we hadn’t asked permission to enter the harbour – not that it was written in any of the pilot books! Italian officialdom at its worst. We decided that we didn’t want to stay given the welcome we had received so we left around 1700 to head towards the island of Ischia.

Picture of Formia that was quite sweet despite the reception we received!

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Pontine Islands

We ended up motoring the whole 160nm to Ponza in the Pontine Islands off the Italian mainland. It was dead calm so a very easy, if expensive, run. With 4 of us on board, the watch system was pretty simple and we soon got into the groove of reading, sun bathing and keeping a look out for ships – not that there were many of them! We arrived at a lovely bay called Chaia de Luna at 0530, anchored safely into sand and slept soundly for a few hours. We awoke to turquoise waters but a beach that had been cordoned off as they were worried about landslides.

We motored around the island which is volcanic with very dramatic cliff faces to Ponza Harbour where we managed to find a spot to anchor in just outside of the town. The town has been occupied since Roman times and some of the houses look like that was the last time they were painted! We arrived around 1300 so decided to have a leisurely lunch and afternoon as none of the shops would be open until at least 1600. At 1700 we went into town to mooch around but you could tell it was the end of season as many of the shops and restaurants were closed. We found one that looked nice and had a good review in Trip Advisor so had an early dinner after a quick beer in a local bar. We are leaving at around 0300 to get to Formia in the mainland ahead of a bit of a blow that is due.

Photos of Chaia de Luna, Nimmie at anchor and Ponza Harbour.

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Our stops on the West coast of Italy

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Arrivederci Sardegne

We are finally on our way from Sardinia to Napoli on the Italian mainland, where we will be mooring Nimmie for the next 12 months. We flew into Alghero on Friday morning with Jase and Lee who are helping us move her the 300 plus miles. We set off from Alghero on Sat morning, having spent Friday getting her ready, including Lee fixing our outboard! Friday eve was spent at Pesce d’Oro, our favourite restaurant. It was a fond farewell to a place we had come to really like and the marina had looked after Nimrod well.

After an 18 hour trip – all bar two hours motoring – we arrived in the Maddalena islands on the NE coast of Sardinia to one of our favourite spots. Deadman’s Passage is a beautiful location with turquoise seas and quiet beaches on the island of Budelli. This is also where the famous Pink Beach is located although it is closed to the public. You have to admire it from afar! Arriving at 0445 meant that we had to carefully pick our way through the rocks and pick up a park authority buoy. We then went to sleep for the next few hours only to woken by the park rangers wanting their mooring fee. After a lazy breakfast, we went exploring and had the beach to ourselves for a time but being a Sunday afternoon the locals had other ideas! It was warm enough today to sunbathe on the beach and even go for a swim! A quiet evening ahead before leaving at midnight for our 30 hour trip towards the mainland of Italy. We are planning at stopping at the Pontine Islands sometime on Tuesday.

Pictures of a last view of Alghero, sunset last night, Jase and Lee whilst moored in Deadman’s Passage and the beach on Budelli.

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A weekend away

This time last week we were in Alghero with my cousins, Bryan and Linda. It was a long weekend of planned boat jobs plus a few we hadn’t! Having got up at the crack of dawn, we caught the early flight as usual but were lucky that, as we had reserved seats, we got out of the terminal quickly and managed to catch an earlier bus than usual. By 10.30am local time we were having breakfast at our favourite cafe. Only Liz managed a beer that early! This meant that the food shopping was all done by midday so Thursday afternoon was spent going round a local winery, Cantina Santa Maria De Palma followed by a few tastings. We were fortunate to be there when the harvested grapes were being delivered.

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Then onto Sella & Mosca, another winery but no free tasting there. The evening was spent at one of the best restaurants in town, Al Tuguri. A lovely meal and fine wine ate inside as there was a brisk breeze despite the temperature of 27 degrees earlier.

The next day, Liz and I got on with jobs (like the gas regulator suddenly not working) and our guests went off on a boat trip to Neptune’s Grotto – except the boat turned round at the headland as the swell was too much to get close to the cave entrance. We ate chicken tagine on board and sat in the cockpit until midnight. It had been another gloriously sunny day.

IMG_2662The following day we decided to hire a car and do some sightseeing. We had tried to find the Neollithic village of Appui on the road to Bosa last year but had failed so we were very pleased to find it this time. Fascinating site with a lovely little cafe and ticket office.

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Then it was of to Bosa itself where we climbed the steps to the castle but didn’t bother going inside as it was pretty much a shell. The town itself is quite pretty with the castle on the hill behind. After a lunch of dubious quality, we drove back towards Alghero in the late afternoon and made our way up to Capo Caccia to catch the sunset. It was truly beautiful. Back to the boat for an on board BBQ and more wine tasting from our vineyard tour.

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Sunday saw Liz being hoisted up the mast by yours truly, ably supported by Bryan to replace the anchor light with a LED dusk to dawn light that will use a tenth of the power of conventional bulbs and only be on during the night time. Liz also replaced some of the melted caulking (the black rubber stuff between the teak strips) which turned out to be a long and messy job!

As this was one of our last night’s in Sardinia, we had cocktails before trying a new restaurant, Restaurant O, on the ramparts. Great meal and not pricey despite being run by a master chef.

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Before we knew it, it was Monday morning and time to get to the airport. It had been a lovely few days in gorgeous, sunny weather. Next time will truly be our last time as we will be moving Nimrod to the Bay of Naples.

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Six chicks hit Sardinia

Day one:
We arrived at Nimrod in time for breakfast beers, was this to set the pattern for things to come? Foolishly allowed Benny to select a play list which consisted of Kenny Rogers! Thank god for Jo and Liz’s Ibiza mix. Enjoyed a lazy afternoon familiarising ourselves with our setting. Sampled cocktails and lobsters that bit back in the old town. There were reports of locals and other tourists being attacked by flying lobster shell!

Day two:
Started early (12.30) in anticipation of turquoise sea and sandy cove. Wind was lacking but sun was high so motored over to Porto Conte. Spent the evening swimming in lovely bay shared with some local mullet and star fish. Beautiful BBQ meat feast accompanied by local ravers till 6am.

Day 3:
After a trip to the local market we managed to get the sails up (for 30mins as wind wasn’t in our favour) and impress skipper with our race team potential! Sailed passed the fabulous Neptune grotto and honey combed cliffs. Trip made extra special by sharing the seas with two dolphins. Porto Ferro didn’t disappoint, yet more turquoise sea and sweeping beaches but this time with a back drop of old look out towers and a few naked gay boys. Swimming and lilo fun had by all although Liz Wall is still mourning the loss of her €2 toy(!) The evening continued with beers, a feast of cous cous and hammock swinging. Unfortunately, the peace was broken at 2am when the swell became too much and Jo announced to her crew “that’s it, we’re moving” and a night sail ensured. We arrived back at Porto Conte and the local rave at 5.30am ready for our beauty sleep.

Day four:
Once again a lovely breakfast enjoyed on deck in the beautiful sunshine. Had to hoist Liz Wall up the mast to stop her running off to the local beach bar disco! Meanwhile, we spent our time diving to take a look at the fish, giant clam and retrieving various objects! (Sorry about your camera lens Ali!). Had ten knots of wind so were looking forward to a sail again, but sadly after raising the sail wind dropped to 4 – So once again the team were thwarted at being able to show their great racing team potential.
When back in harbour we scrubbed Nimrod within an inch of her life, before heading for dinner at Kings restaurant for our last evening meal together……lovely 🙂

Quotes of the week:

“Darling that’s an onion!”
“Night time, day time”
“Crisp time, beer time”
“Shit, shit, shit”
“Al, al, al, al, al”
“Quick, where’s the fishing net”
“What?! I’m just eating cheese off ben’s shin”
“That’s it we’re moving! (Darling do you mind if I have a sleep!”)
“It’s 5.45am, why aren’t they in bed?”

Pictures of our time on Nimrod including BBQ, beach fun, eating out and beautiful sunset.

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Weekend in Alghero

We were really looking forward to a long weekend away. The forecast was looking good at 36 degrees with light winds – perfect for some R&R in a local bay. The six of us arrived in Alghero at 10am after an early start from Luton. We stopped at our favourite cafe for a focaccia and a beer before going to the boat. Liz went with Donna and Liz C to do the food shop whilst Ben, Aly and I got the boat ready. Most had a little snooze for an hour or so before going into town where we all went for local rock lobster with spaghetti, washed down with the local white vermentino. Very nice.

Today, after a leisurely breakfast, there was no wind so we motored to Porto Conte – the large bay about 8nm from Alghero just before the main headland of Capo Caccia. We arrived around 2pm and anchored in a bay by the local marina. The first time we anchored it didn’t set properly as it seemed we had found a thin layer of sand over rock. We were okay whilst we had lunch but didn’t want to risk it overnight so we moved to another area of the bay and reset it. We are about to have a BBQ but needed to wait until it had cooled down a bit as it was still 31 degrees at 7.30pm!

Pictures of our meal on the ramparts, Liz C helping with supper and the beach at Porto Conte.

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Tranquil in Asinara

We had an uneventful night sail over to Sardinia on Friday evening despite crossing the Straits of Bonifacio – a heavy shipping channel. We saw a couple of large freight liners and a superyacht but none of them close enough to worry about. We had wind for the first three hours but then it died so the last 5 were with the motor. There was a significant swell of 1.5m that made it difficult for those off watch to sleep well but once we were moored up on a mooring buoy in the Asinara national park, sleep claimed us for the rest of the morning.

After a lazy breakfast in the late morning we took the dinghy ashore to wander around the ex penal colony and also walk to the beach at Cala Sabrina. The last time we were here it was in October and everything was shut. This time a bar, shops and plenty of tourists gave the place some life. It is still a barren and rugged place and we were pleased to see that the donkeys and goats were still going strong.

We were going to make our way further south towards Stintino so that we had less of a journey back to Alghero tomorrow but we felt so chilled that we decided to stay here the night.

Pictures of nimrod in the bay, the tower in Cala d’Oliva and the beach at Sabrina.

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Cala d’Oliva

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Sabrina Beach

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Return to Bonifacio

We awoke on Thursday morning to brilliant sunshine in Rondinara so we had a champagne breakfast to celebrate Graham’s birthday before heading off for lunch to the Cavallo island in the Straits of Bonifacio. There are a number of very low lying islands around there but they should only be entered in fine, settled weather. There was very little wind so we motored the whole way and then, of course, the wind picked up. Even so, it was a delightful lunch stop – if a little crowded. The bay we anchored in is full of millionaires’ homes, which made for an interesting backdrop. They even have a private runway there for them!

After lunch we picked our way through the Passage de la Piantarella, which allowed us to shorten the journey time to Bonifacio by several miles but care needs to be taken as it is strewn with rocks. Once through we were able to take advantage of the afternoon sea breeze to have a great sail to Bonifacio. We first saw Bonifacio last October when the season was drawing to a close. In late June it was alive and buzzing, not least because the Tour de France is due to pass through it on Saturday! For such a small harbour, it is amazing how many superyachts it can find room for with some over 60m long and over 8m wide. They had to drop their anchor near us, some 200m from the quay. Quite a feat in manoeuvring such large boats. As you can imagine, the marina was very nearly full but we managed to find a spot after refuelling (at 60 cents a litre less than in Sardinia). We decided to eat out and found a lovely restaurant on the north side of the harbour attached to the hotel club nautique. We each had the fixed price menu at €25 with a couple of bottles of local wine – delicious. We then had a walk up into the old town to have a drink but the place was very nearly deserted. It seems everyone was down by the harbour so it was back to the boat for a digestif.

This morning, Michael and Graham went off to explore the old town and walk the 187 steps of King Aragon down the sea facing side of the cliff face. Liz and I spent the time doing chores on the boat including fitting an inline fuse onto the new water pump. You do wonder why manufacturers don’t include them if they are required.

Around 2pm we set off to make our way back to Sardinia as our holiday is starting to come to a close. Before crossing the Straits we detoured to the Bay of Figuri that was supposed to be quite pretty. It was blowing quite hard and the sun was hidden behind dark clouds so it didn’t look as picturesque as we had imagined but we anchored in a quiet bay for a few hours before starting our night sail to the NW tip of Sardinia, Asinara, where there is a national park to spend the last day of our holiday before returning to Alghero.

Pictures of Bonifacio citadel from the marina, the birthday meal and some of the superyachts.

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Meteo madness

Michael writes, with Graham jogging his failing memory:

Recovered from our night sail, it was time to “nip around” to Porto Vecchio, some 10 nm away. The Meteo Marine smartphone app promised us wind force 2-3 variable: usually code for “motor all the way”. What we got was wind force 5, gusting 6, on the nose (i.e. blowing straight at us). So our gentle hop turned into four hours of rufty-tufty sailing, tacking into the wind with two reefs in our mainsail and bouncing over a moderate swell. This was lots of fun, but hard work after our all-nighter. Nimrod took it all in her stride and never had us feeling anything other than safe and in control.

Porto Vecchio is a large natural harbour with lots of cute anchorages, but the force five did not abate and so our main concern was to find somewhere with good holding for the anchor and lots of room to swing on a decent length of chain. We ended up to the south of the commercial port; much more picturesque than it sounds, lovely views of sympathetically developed holiday home running up a wooded hillside. The force five blew until late in the evening but our anchor dug fast and we were all set. We are still talking about the weather forecast: stunningly wrong, and leaving us wondering how 12 hours of 25-30 knot wind could be invisible to the forecasters.

Too windy for a barbecue so Jo cooked us a hearty chili con carne, accompanied by some very tasty Corsican red wine. Yum yum.

This morning, Liz, Graham and Michael took baby Nimrod over to the town marina, and walked up the very steep hill to the old town. Wonderful views from tiny streets over the expanse of harbour and salt pans coupled with 16th C Geonese stone architecture make it a pretty spot, but almost every building is now a restaurant, boutique or souvenir shop. It will take a prodigious number of visitors to keep them all going.

The wind having now vanished, this afternoon saw us motoring the 15 miles around to La Rondinara, a beautifully sheltered 270 degree bay with beaches and crystal clear water. Last time Jo and Liz were here there were only Nimrod and one other boat, but that was October. Today there must be 20 yachts but it’s still a super spot, surrounded by sandy beaches and green hills. The water is lovely, clear turquoise but with a few too many purple jellyfish to allow completely free swimming. Graham swam ashore but had a couple of near misses.

Tonight is perfect for a barbecue and Jo has just slung her sausages on the charcoal grill. Sizzle-icious.

A quick note about Nimrod: how nice to spend time aboard such a well-equipped, well-loved and competent yacht – compared with the somewhat soulless plastic tubs that are what we usually charter in the Med. Jo & Liz have clearly put a lot of thought and time into sorting her and making her homely.

Pictures of our track yesterday, the anchorage at Porto Vecchio and a view of the old town from Nimmie. View of our anchorage from Porto Vecchio. Jo, queen of the BBQ aboard Nimrod at La Rondinara.

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Bastia

We arrived in Bastia on Sat afternoon in plenty of time to do a crew swap. The marina is cramped with a narrow entrance but luckily it went seamlessly. After sorting ourselves out we went into town for a final meal with the Colins and ate at La Taverna – a recommendation by the marina. It is well known as a meat restaurant and didn’t disappoint. It was a meat fest! We didn’t stay out late as the boys needed to be up at 7 to get a taxi to the airport.

After seeing them off at 0800, Liz and I went back to sleep for an hour or so before tackling the never ending list of jobs. This included shopping and washing but unfortunately the supermarket was closed and the laundrette was not on site so we did it by hand in a large bucket. Our new guests, Michael and Graham, arrived around 1700 so after a couple of beers and a chicken salad, we wandered into town. It’s only about 15 mins away to the old port so we followed the crowds. It turns out that the town was celebrating St Jean Baptiste with a huge bonfire in the harbour followed by an excellent fireworks display. We then rounded of the evening with cocktails at a nearby bar. The whole place was buzzing and much livelier than the Sat evening.

There had been strong winds forecast overnight and they duly arrived with gusts up to 30 in the marina so we spent Monday shopping for food and beer and then went back into town to explore a bit more. We climbed up to the old citadel that overlooks the harbour and found a maze of small streets and alleyways crowded with bars and restaurants. A very enjoyable afternoon was spent in the old quarter.

The wind was due to die down around 1800 so that we could get out of the marina and head south for 60nm towards Porto Vecchio. In the end we left nearer 2000 and were able to sail under the genoa alone for the first two hours but the wind died with the sunset. We arrived at Anse de Cannella, 10nm north of Porto Vecchio, at 0600 this morning (Tuesday). We anchored in gorgeous turquoise waters and went to sleep for a few hours. Unfortunately, there seemed to be a swell from passing ships straight into the bay so the boat rolled a lot. We still managed a few hours sleep before a lovely breakfast and swim before moving off towards Porto Vecchio.

Pictures of our new guests enjoying a cocktail, Bastia and Graham swimming in Anse de Cannella.

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