We needed to go back to the UK for a few days last week so went into Marina Kaštela, just outside Split on Wednesday afternoon as it was close to the airport and a large Konzum supermarket. Our friends, Kate and Loui, were supposed to join us from the Tuesday but this had to be postponed until we got back on the Sunday. However, we did manage to meet up with them for dinner on the Wednesday evening in Split. Split is a wonderful city with the historical centre alive and vibrant. It was great to catch up although it was after midnight before we left the restaurant and 1am when we got back to the boat. All this would have been fine if we weren’t catching an early flight home!
We caught the 0630 flight out of Luton back to Split on the Sunday morning. Luton airport was manic and absolutely rammed with people even at 5am. Tranquility was restored once we were back on Nimmie and after a few hours shopping and getting her ready, we were off back to Bol on Brač to pick up Kate and Loui. We made great time with a strong afternoon breeze so we were mooring up on the town quay by 7pm. Bol is a bit of a party town with loud music going from midnight to around 3am. There was also a lot of wash from ferries and little ribs, which meant that being moored next to other boats increased the likelihood of bashing into each other. It happened although we didn’t discover the damage until yesterday. Seems that the other boat’s stanchion caught the metal strip on our rubbing strake. Liz did a magnificent job of repairing it today so you can’t really see any damage.
The night was a little calmer although the music was pretty loud. We had a leisurely morning, leaving after midday to make for the island of Hvar. We decided to stop for the night in the large bay of Stari Grad in a cove called Luka Tiha. We pretty much had the place to ourselves until around 7pm.
After a lovely, quiet evening it was time for another party bay. This time, THE party destination in Croatia – Carpe Diem Beach Bar on the Pakleni Islands. It’s in a secluded anchorage to the south as all the ferries arrive at the north end of the island. We anchored and settled down wondering why the bar was so quiet. Other boats joined us with many dragging their anchors in the high winds. By 9pm, everyone seemed to have sorted themselves out. By midnight, the music started. They have a very good sound system as you could hear every note and word across the bay! It finished at 0530, which is when Liz came to bed, having had her own private beach party on the back of the boat. Her best ever anchor watch !!
We then went a couple of miles along to the island of Klement where there is a large bay called Vinogradisce with mooring buoys, beach bars and restaurants. We had a reserved a place the afternoon before when there was no room for us (and paid 100 kuna for the privilege!) so we knew we had a mooring buoy waiting for us. It is a delightful bay with lots going on and room for 40 boats, some large and none small. With its crystal clear water (a regular feature in Croatia), delightful vista and shelter, we decided to stay two nights. Although lovely, by 11pm all was quiet.
Yesterday evening we caught the water taxi from the marina on the other side of the island across to Hvar Town.
The town itself is lovely with its marbled streets, narrow alleyways and town quay but the highlight had to be having cocktails watching the sunset at the Hula Hula Beach Bar. So reminiscent of Cafe del Mar in Ibiza. Brilliant.
After the very good cocktails we found a gem of a restaurant called Konoba Luviji in the back streets of Hvar which has been run by the same family for generations. Gorgeous food including shark and a goulash to die for. Caught the taxi ferry back and all back on board by midnight.
Tonight we are off to sample the cocktails at a nearby beach bar in the bay before a BBQ on board. Happy days.